Why analog sticks drift in the first place
A standard joystick measures movement with a carbon track and a metal wiper arm pressing against it. Every hour of play scrapes a little graphite off that track. Once the wear is uneven, the controller reports a direction you are not pushing — which is why drift usually starts as a slow pull in one direction and gets worse over months.
- It is a wear fault, not a software fault — calibration resets do not fix itnIt affects both first-party and third-party controllersnIt gets worse with use rather than settling down
What it costs, depending on what you need
Sticks can be replaced singly or as a pair, and you can choose the same design the controller came with or a magnetic one that has nothing to wear out. The second stick costs much less than the first, because the controller is already open and on the bench.
| Option | One stick | Both sticks |
|---|---|---|
| Factory-style sticks Same design and feel as the originals | C$25 | C$35 |
| TMR magnetic sticks No contact surfaces, so no wear to drift | C$30 | C$50 |
Prices include the parts, the soldering, the recalibration and the 90-day warranty. If only one stick is drifting we will still test the other before recommending anything — replacing just one can leave the two feeling different, and we will say so if we think you would notice.
What the repair involves
Drift is a wear fault, so the only real fix is to replace the modules — and then to prove afterwards that the controller reports centre correctly.
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Step 1:Measure the fault
Before anything is opened we read the stick output and record how far off centre it sits, so there is a number to compare against at the end.
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Step 2:Replace the modules
The controller is fully stripped and the stick modules are desoldered and replaced. This is the part that needs the bench and the iron.
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Step 3:Recalibrate the centre
New modules are not automatically centred. Each one is calibrated so the resting position reads as zero on both axes.
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Step 4:Test and hand back
Sticks, triggers, buttons and rumble are all tested against the original fault before the controller goes back to you.
What we cannot promise
Replacing the sticks fixes the drift. It does not make the rest of the controller new — the triggers, buttons, battery and shell are all the same age they were before. If a controller has been opened previously and a pad has lifted from the board, we may not be able to fit new sticks at all, and we will tell you that before you are charged anything.
- We will not take on a controller we think we will make worsenIf we cannot fit the sticks you pay nothing, including the assessmentnEvery repair carries the 90-day warranty on the parts and the workmanship
Stick drift questions
Should I choose factory-style or TMR sticks?
Factory-style sticks feel identical to the originals and cost less, but they use the same carbon-track design, so they will eventually wear the same way. TMR sticks read the stick position with a magnetic field instead of a sliding contact, so there is nothing to wear out. If you play often, or you have already replaced sticks once before, TMR is the better long-term answer.
Do I need both sticks replaced, or just the drifting one?
We can do either, and the prices above show both. We usually suggest doing both if the controller has a lot of hours on it, because the second stick is only a little more while the controller is already open — and it saves you coming back. If only one is drifting and the other feels fine, replacing one is a perfectly reasonable choice.
Will the drift come back after the repair?
With factory-style sticks the same wear will eventually happen again, because the design relies on a contact surface. With TMR sticks there is nothing to wear, which is why we recommend them for controllers that get a lot of use.
Can you fix drift without soldering?
No. Drift is caused by worn modules, so the modules have to be replaced, and on DualSense controllers those are soldered to the board. Software calibration cannot fix a worn track, whatever a tutorial suggests.
Is it worth repairing, or should I buy a new controller?
A repair is normally a fraction of the cost of a replacement, and it keeps a controller that is otherwise fine out of the bin. If we think a replacement is the better value in your case we will say so rather than take the job.
My controller also has a sticky trigger. Can you do both?
Yes, and it is cheaper to do them at the same time because the controller is already open. Mention it when you drop the controller off and we will quote the pair together.
Bring the controller in and we will test it
We can measure the drift on the bench in a few minutes and tell you which option suits your controller before you commit to anything.
No Fix, No Fee. Walk in at our Oakville workshop during opening hours, or send it to us.