Sticks are a separate repair
This page covers everything except the thumbsticks. If your controller drifts, sticks or will not hold centre, that is a stick replacement rather than this service, and it has its own page for standard controllers and for the Elite Series 2.
- Standard Xbox One or Series controller drifting — see Xbox joystick replacement
- Elite Series 2 drifting, or its tension adjustment no longer working — see Elite Series 2 joysticks
- Everything else — bumpers, triggers, buttons, charging, connection — is this page
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2 business days
Typical turnaround
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Free assessment
Every input tested first
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3-month warranty
Parts and labour
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C$45–C$120
Per controller
Controller faults, priced by model
The Elite Series 2 costs more to work on because it is a different controller inside, not a standard one with better parts bolted on. Its battery is built in and its boards and assemblies are its own.
| Fault | Xbox One, Series X|S | Elite Series 2 |
|---|---|---|
| Bumper or trigger Sticking, not clicking, or not registering | C$45 | C$60 |
| Face buttons or D-pad Soft, skipping presses, or pressing the wrong direction | C$45 | C$60 |
| Charging port or battery Will not charge, will not hold, or only charges at an angle | C$65 | C$80 |
| Connection or board-level fault Drops out, will not pair, or a fault the tests cannot place | C$95 | C$120 |
If one thing has failed you pay for one thing. A sticky trigger that turns out to be a spill gets cleaned rather than replaced, and if cleaning solves it you pay the smaller amount.
What the repair involves
Xbox controllers are among the most repairable around, but the Elite is a different animal — and treating the two as interchangeable is how controllers come back with new problems.
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Step 1:Test every input
Each button, bumper, trigger and the D-pad are read individually and recorded, so the fault is a measurement rather than an assumption about which part to order.
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Step 2:Replace the failed part
Bumpers and triggers are separate assemblies and are replaced as such, with the correct fitment for a standard controller or an Elite Series 2.
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Step 3:Handle the Elite properly
The Elite has a built-in battery rather than AA cells and its own board layout, so it is opened differently and its parts are specific to it. That is most of the price difference.
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Step 4:Test before it goes back
Every input is read again and compared with the original readings. A bumper that works but reads intermittently has not been fixed.
A controller that has already been opened
Having a go at a repair first is understandable and we are not going to lecture you about it — but controllers that arrive after an attempt often have new faults on top of the old one: stripped shell screws, a pinched ribbon or a lifted pad. Tell us it has been opened and we will check that damage before quoting, so the price reflects everything that needs doing.
- We report pre-existing damage before starting, not after
- If a previous attempt has made it uneconomical, we will say so
- A controller we cannot fix costs you nothing
Xbox controller questions
My controller drifts. Is that this repair?
No — drift is a worn stick, and sticks have their own pages: Xbox joystick replacement for standard controllers, and Elite Series 2 joysticks for the Elite. Both are cheaper than this page's board-level row and are the most common controller repair we do.
Why does the Elite Series 2 cost more to repair?
Because it is a genuinely different controller. Its battery is built in rather than being AA cells in a pack, its board layout and trigger assemblies are its own, and its parts are specific to it. Same fault, more bench time.
My controller will not charge. What is usually wrong?
On a standard controller it is usually the USB-C port, and occasionally the battery in the pack. On an Elite it is more often the built-in battery or the port. Both are priced above, and the assessment decides which rather than us guessing.
Is a controller repair worth it, or should I replace it?
Almost always worth repairing — and especially on an Elite, where a replacement costs many times the dearest row on this page. The exception is liquid damage that has reached the board, and we will say so if that is what we find.
My buttons are sticky rather than broken. Can they be cleaned?
Yes, and cleaning is the cheap outcome. Sticky buttons are normally a spill rather than wear, and everything is tested before anything is replaced. If cleaning fixes it, that is what you pay for.
How long will you have it?
About two business days. Controllers are quick once the right part is in hand; the rest is reassembly and testing.
Tell us which input has stopped working
A bumper, a trigger, a face button or the charging port — naming the part gets us most of the way before you arrive. Controllers are the cheapest thing on this site to have looked at.
No Fix, No Fee. Walk in at our Oakville workshop during opening hours, or send it to us.